Description | He has long delayed his account of the Muharram festival, but he describes the large houses of Calcutta, including that of Hajji Kerbelai [?] and two Rajahs. William notes the narrowness of streets and the obstacle caused by the very dangerous open drains for road traffic. He describes the practice of placing beds over the drains for coolness, although 'cholera is prevelant' and he muses on the temperature. He describes a moonlight visit to the Hajji's house where his guide said the Hajji had sixteen wives whom he treated badly; William gives an anecdote of one of the wives revenging herself on a servant. He returrns to giving a romantic account of the house, but reverses himself, saying that the hall was 'like a barn' and the whole disenchanting. A member of the family introduced himself and offered to conduct them, William saying that rich Hindus have many such attaches, but that they are expected to do 'their Master's will', including crimes. William's companion, 'Mrs S' [Stewart], was already acquainted with Mr Hajji, as a doctor's wife, and William describes the elderly man. He gives a sketch plan of the house and notes his procession through the rooms, including seeing a mirrored room, and chandeliers, rich decorations and ornamentation, chiefly sentences from the Koran. There was a model of the tomb of Hassan and Hussein on a raised red velvet covered platform. They could not enter and therefore William describes what he could see through a doorway, obscured by flags. Their guide explained the ceremonies which then commenced, but they could understand little of the language. William gives an account of the procession, and concludes the episode at their taking leave of the old man, which included sprinkled rosewater from a bottle which he sketches. He then notes a visit to Sir Lawrence Peel, whom he likes. Peel's residence and garden is described, Peel is old, but has the energy of a young man. William does not have his 'Bengalee degree', but is reported to have made rapid progress and was placed first on the list. He was also first in Hindi. He has given up the latter that month in order to concentrate on finishing the Bengal language that year. Then he will give his attention to Arabic. The examiner, Mr Lees, says that William should not expect to get this. William was 'plucked' this time for talking during the examination, which was hard justice, William thinks. He has received a picture of his father, 'by far the best I have'. |